One of the few places suitable for rock climbing in Moldova is Cobani. The village is located on the north of the country in Glodeni District. On the edge of the village there are toltres with the altitude of ~12 meters – Stînca Mare.
По-русски: Скалолазание в Кобани.
How to get
The easiest way is to go by car from Chișinău or Bălți.
The village has water wells, shops. Tents can be placed directly under and above the rocks.
You can climb in any dry season with positive temperature. The sun shines on the rocks after 13:00 and until the evening, it is hot during summer and late spring. Here are often winds.
History and bolting
Since the 80s, tourists and mountaineers from Bălți have been training in this region as well as in Butești. In 2006 the Mountaineering Club of RM held here the championship of RM in rock climbing.
In autumn 2017 I was in this place and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the breed. In June 2018, me and a group of Chisinau enthusiasts bolted several sport climbing routes here.
We used glue in bolts. On the anchors there are only two bolts – no chain. You can lower directly from the bolts. We will put chains in the future.
Warning! Rocks can fall from above. Be sure to wear a helmet, belay from a safe place, be careful. Especially after rain and away from the routes.
Sport climbing and bouldering sectors are listed below. The rocks circled with white dotes have potentitial for new bouldering problems.
Routes bolted for lead climbing are shown with red lines. Triangle shows the anchor. Dashed white lines show routes suitable only for top rope. Blue lines show bouldering problems.
First sector on the left.
|2||Covid-19||Sadovyj||lead||5a+||10m||5||5c if you don't use left corner|
|5||Kto tam? (Who's there?)||Ptichij||lead||6a||12m||5|
|10||Ptichij||top rope||6a||13m||?||First bolt is 4 meter high, use stick to clip. Common bolts with route #11|
|11||Ptichij||top rope||6a+||13m||6||First bolt is 4 meter high, use stick to clip. Common bolts with route #10|
In order to put top rope for routes 6-10, you need to walk around and above the rocks.
Routes 6-8 can be climbed with the same rope. You need to build a natural anchor. Put slings through holes in the rock. Tie up a huge stone.
To climb routes 9-10 you need to make 15 meters extension from the tree. You can connect this extension with an old anchor.
The routes where bolted by:
- Karen Grigorean
- Valentina Cozireva
- Nikolay Cozirev
- Danil Zarubin
- Daria Shanina
- Denis Statkevich
- Marina Mikitenko
- Valentyn Kotelnikov
- Mihail Scerbatiuc
If you have any comments, suggestions or additional information, please contact me on facebook.