13 km from the village of Cobani, on the bank of the Costești water reservoir, there is another crag worth a visit – Duruitoarea Veche.

По-русски: Скалолазание и боулдеринг в Дуруитоаря · În română: Escaladă și bouldering în Duruitoarea.

Potential

There are two decent grottos with real potential for hard problems in the 7s. There is a gorge with rocks 15-25 meters high. There are overhangs, and they look picturesque. The rock is mostly loose. Still, it is quite possible to develop a few worthwhile sport routes here.

In 2018 Valentina Kozyreva organized top-rope climbing for beginners here.

Below are the boulder problems we established here in spring 2020. In the gorge I bolted a sport route. Thanks to the X-style shop for the donated bolt hangers.

Logistics

Right next to the rocks there is a campsite, Duruita (~€5‎ per person per day).

Another option is to camp on the bank of the Costești water reservoir. Keep in mind that border police sometimes patrol here, and in season there are lots of "barbecue" picnickers.

First Grotto

On the approach to this sector there is a sign "Monument arheologic din epoca paleoliticului; Ocrotit de stat" (an archaeological monument of the Paleolithic era, protected by the state). Despite the protection, someone burned a car tire inside the grotto, so parts of the walls are covered in black soot. Fortunately, there are still plenty of clean sections.

Expect steep overhangs and even roof climbing here. The grotto is ~6 meters high – crash pads and spotters are a must.

Gorge – Left

Warning! Rocks can fall from above. Be sure to wear a helmet, belay from a safe place, be careful. Especially after rain and away from the routes.

There are two ways to get to the start of the routes:

1. Walk up the grassy slope above the «Left» sector from the «Duruita» campsite. At the top you will find two M12 threaded studs in the rock – put your own hangers on them. If you have no hangers, sling the big rock flake. You need a rope of at least 40 meters. Rappel from this anchor. See «Rappel» in the photo below.
2. You can walk up from the gorge directly to the base of the routes along a steep scree slope. Be careful, especially in the rain. See «Approach» in the photo below.

We cleaned the large loose rocks off the routes, but small stuff can still break off. Belay carefully and always wear a helmet.

Second Grotto

Distant Boulder

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Change Log

• 14.06.2020 – Added an English translation.
• 3.07.2020 – Added two new boulder problems in the left grotto: 6c and 7a